Ulicama Jerusalima

  12 July 2018

Posjetiti Izrael i Jerusalim djelovalo mi je zaista nerealno i nestvarno dok nisam spakovala kofere i otišla. Kada pomislim na Izrael i Jerusalim prvo pomislim na istoriju, religiju, Bibliju, kulturu, arheologiju, vječite sukobe oko teritorije i avanturu. Grad koji fascinira. A ja ću imati priliku i da ga posjetim i boravim u njemu mjesec dana. Uzbuđenje je dostiglo svoj maksimum. Svaki dan na kalendaru do datuma samog polaska mi je prolazio sporo. Užasno sporo. A onda je došao i taj trenutak i uputila sam se ka vječitom gradu.

 Izrael zvuči kao mitska zemlja o kojoj se raspredaju razne legende i priče od kojih su neke lijepe, neke su malo zastrašujuće a neke su fascinantne i samo ih srcem možemo slijditi. Ako se pitate šta je istina reći ću vam sve ovo i još mnogo toga. Današnja država Izrael je jedna moderna vojna država koja ima mnogo toga da pokaže i pruži turistima iz cijelog svijeta uključujući u svoju ponudu savremene metropole i gradove iz perioda najpoznatije ličnosti ljudske istorije Isusa Hrista, prelijepe pejzaže i kulinarske zalogaje koji vas neće ostaviti ravnodušnim, ljubazne ljude i neverovatan spoj bliskog istoka i moderne Evrope. Ovo je putovanje za sve one koji nemaju predrasude, žele da obiđu svijet i dožive, saznaju i nauče više nego na bilo kojem času istorije. Zaboravite sve što znate i krenite sa mnom Jerusalim nas zove.

Moju priču o ovom putovanjeu počinjemo dolaskom na aerodrom nazvan po ocu države - Ben Gurion, koji važi za jedan od najsigurnijih na svijetu. Nasuprot svim pričama koje kruže na internetu o otežanom ulasku u Izrael, moj ulazak u zemlju je bio sasvim jednostavan i kratak. Pri ulasku sam dobila karton sa dozvolom za boravak koji je od tog momenta postao važeći dokument koji sam stalno nosila sa sobom. Međutim izlazak je sasvim druga priča jer zahtjeva da budete na aerodromu čak 4 sata pre vašeg leta da biste uspjeli da postignete prolazak kroz sve kontrolne punktove i čekiranja koja vas očekuju. Vjerujte mi na riječ strpljenje je jedino čime se možete naoružati. Jerusalim je bio grad koji će narednog perioda biti moj izraelski dom i odakle ću putovati dalje i proučavati ovo malo a neverovatno parče zemlje oko kojeg su se otimale tri svjetske religije. Grad koji ću zauvek nosisti u svom srcu.

Jerusalim je Izraelski kulturni i duhovni centar koji svojim posetiocima omogućava beskonačne prilike za sagledavanje iz najrazličitijih uglova i mogu vam sa sigurnošću reći da je teško u svijetu naći grad kao što je Jerusalim, gde samo jednim prelaskom ulice možete zakoračiti iz modernog života 21-og veka u prošlost, i izgubiti se. Grad proroka i kraljeva, različitih biblijskih ličnosti, mjesto hodočašća sveto za hrišćane, judaiste i muslimane svakako treba doživeti i dopustiti da vas polako očara i osvoji, a kada se to desi onda ste nepovratno zaljubljeni u ovo mjesto prepuno starih i novih rana, šarenoliko, užurbano, veselo, toplo i energično. Šarenilo, gužva i buka su sastavni dio.

Jerusalim se sastoji od novog dela grada i drevnog Jerusalima opasanog visokim kamenim zidinama u koji možete zakoračiti kroz jednu od sedam kapija koje vode u sami stari grad. Postojeći zidovi starog grada su živi primer arapske-islamske arhitekture i konstruisani su za vreme Sulejmana Veličanstvenog. Sam stari grad je podeljen u četiri kvarta: Arapski (Muslimanski kvart), Jevrejski kvart, Hrišćanski kvart i Jermenski kvart od kojih je Muslimanski kvart najveći i prostire se od Lavlje kapije do Damask kapije. U sklopu ovog dijela grada nalazi se i hramovno brdo Morija gde se nalazi džamija Al Aksa i svetilište Kupola na steni  koje zauzimaju posebno mesto u islamu jer se po predanju odatle prorok Muhamed vazneo na nebo. Vrijedi ih vidjeti i posetiti jer njihove kupole crna i zlatna dominiraju panoramom grada i nalaze se na svim fotografijama i razglednicama Jerusalima. Speicifična teritorija gde se nalaze ove svetinje uzrok je neprestanih sukoba između Arapa i Jevreja jer i jedni i drugi polažu pravo na Hramovnu goru. Ulazak na ovu svetu teritoriju dozvoljen je posetiocima samo sa jednog mjesta i u tačno određene satnice kada slobodno možete prošetati oko ovih impozantnih arhitektonskih objekata. Kao i na svim mjestima posebnim iz religijskih pobuda neophodno je prikladno se obući a to znači pokriti ramena i kolena a preporučujem vam da jednu laganu maramu uvijek imate pri ruci jer će vam dobro doći za ulzak u svetilišta sve tri religije a i štitiće vas od jarkog sunca. U centru muslimankse četvrti počinje put kojim je išao Isus Hristos noseći krst ka Golgoti nazvan put bola (Via Dolorosa) i ovde se često možete susreti sa hodočasnicima koji idu tragom Isusa Hrista. Ova četvrt je veliki dio dana jako živa nudeći vam da okusite orijentalne specijalitete ili isprobate vještinu cenjkanja kupujući na arapskoj pijaci- suku začine, čajeve, suvenire, rukotvorine. Prodavnica nazvana Sveta Zemlja će vas osvojiti ponudom čajeva i začina. Poželećete ih sve. Kupite biblijski začin isop poznat još i kao zatar a predanje kaže da se najbolje jede uz hleb i maslinovo ulje.

Jevrejska četvrt grada sa svojim centralnim trgom Hurvom  je posebna za videti i osetiti jer svojom čistoćom i mirnom atmosferom odudara od ostatka starog grada. Njoj pripadaju čak dve kapije Jerusalima: Zion i Dang a graniči se sa Jermenskom četvrti i prostire se do Zapadnog zida poznatijeg kao Zid plača gde svakodnevno veliki deo jevreja judaističkog opredeljenja dolazi da se pomoli svom Bogu u dva odvojena prostora muškom i ženskom a tradicija kaže da svoju najdragoceniju želju napišete Bogu na komad papira i ostavite u pukotinama Zapadnog zida koji je ostatak neprežaljenog  jevrejskog svetog hrama koji su rimljani uništili tokom svoje okupacije Jerusalima. I želja će vam se ostvariti. U ovoj četvrti se nalaze i arheološke iskopine rimske ulice Cardo iz vizantijskog doba i neki od fenomenalnih jevrejskih muzeja.

Hrišćanska četvrt se graniči sa muslimanskom, jermesnkom i jevrejskom i poseduje dve kapije Džafa i Novu kapiju i počela je da se razvija u doba vizantije oko Bazilike Svetog groba najsvetijeg mesta za hrišćane. Bazilika Svetog groba ima nekoliko nivoa i obuhvata i nekadašnju Goglotu gde je Isus Hrist bio raspet. Fascinantno je da se danas o njoj brinu četiri raličitie hrišćanske dominacije i da je non stop prepuna turista i hodočasnika.

Jermenska četvrt je najmanji deo starog Jerusalima i nalazi se nasuprot hrišćanske četvrti i ovde možete pronaći neverovatno posuđe i suvenire od keramike a i posetiti radionice gde ovi izvanredni majstori sami prave keramiku, boje i vajaju raličite oblike. Za velikog ljubitelja šolja ovo je bilo oduševljavajuće. Nemojte me samo pitati koliko je njih ponašlo put do mog kofera i nazad do kuće. 

Uskim i krivudavim ulicama starog grada je prelijpo šetati i lutati i gubiti se jer ćete svakog puta pronaći nešto novo i fascinantno ali je ipak najbolje obići prvo Jerusalim sa plaćenim vodičima koji će vam najznačajnije tačke grada pokazati i propratiti istorijskim i posebnim kazivanjima i legendama a možete se pridružiti i nekoj od besplatnih tura koje organizuje turitička organizacija grada. Stari Jerusalim je košnica prepuna zvukova, mirisa, ukusa i boja i nikada vam neće dosaditi da prolazite njenim kamenim putevima i zaneseno gledate u ljude i fasade. Ali ni novi deo Jerusalima ne zaostaje svojim mozaikom ljudi svih doba i nacionalnosti koji Jerusalim nazivaju svojim domom. Ovaj deo grada se počeo razvijati od 1860 – te godine. Ovde možete pronaći neobične radnje, jevrejske dizajnere, nezaobilaznu jevrejsku pijaci sa malim restoranima. Nikako nemojte zaobići carstvo alve jer su svoje ime zaslužili a od ponude različitih ukusa će vam se zavrteti u glavi. Tu su još i restorani jevrejske ali i svih svetskih kuhinja, prodavnice suvenira, muzeji, kafići i mesta za izlazak, galerije, šarenoliki svet prepun energije. Deo grada koji vas jednako očarava i intrigira kao i stari deo grada. A zatim Jerusalim u svojoj ponudi ima i Biblijski zološki vrt u kojem sam provela preko 5 sati obilazeći životinje koje su velikim delom puštene i možete im prići i uživati u razgledanju prelepe prirode ili se voziti vozićem kroz sam vrt ili kao ja zaglaviti u delu sa pticama koji je toliko lep da mi i sad izmami osmeh na lice i hraniti razne vrste papagaja. U ovom vrtu postoji i replika Nojeve barke. Jedno popodne obavezno izdvojite da posjetite i ogromnu botaničku baštu u kojoj možete videti preko 6 200 različitih biljnih vrsta na jednom mestu ali i slediti biblijsku stazu i osmotriti biljke i drveće koje pominju redovi ove svete knjige.

Nikako ne smijete propustiti ni obilazak Maslinkse gore odakle se pruža nevjerovatan pogled na panoramu starog grada i Jerusalimske krovove. Zatim tu je i veliki broj hrišćanskih crkvi i katedrala koje će vas oduševiti svojom arhitekturom i prelepi maslinjaci i Gecimanski vrt. A nedaleko od starog grada nalazi se i Vrtni grob za koji se vjeruje da je mesto gde je Isus Hristos bio sahranjen. Ulaz je besplatan i ljubazno osoblje će vam ponuditi i audio vodič na srpskom jeziku.

I još jedno mjesto koje nikako ne smete propustiti je da se vratite u istoriju i da zavirite u  Davidov grad koji krije arheološko nalazište Jerusalima iz doba jednog od najpoznatijih careva cara Davida. Preporučujem vam da platite turu jer će vas ljubazni vodič voditi iskopinama zidina Jerusalima cara Davida, ostacima carske palate i kuća i na kraju ćete moći da prođete uskim i niskim tunelom za vodu proroka Jezekije u dužini od 533 metra dok vam voda dopire do kolena ali doživljaj je jedinstven i neprevaziđen jer ste direktno uronili u istoriju opipali je i vidjeli. I na kraju ovog puta naćićete se u Silomskom bazenu.

Za ljubitelje kupovine Jerusalim nudi veliki broj tržnih centara u kojima možete naći poznate evropske i američke brendove  ali i izraleske a ja vam preporučujem Mamila Bulevar tržni centar na otvorenom koji se može uporediti sa Rodeo Drajvom u Los Anđelesu, a pored radnji šetalištem su izložena umetnička djela: slike i skultpure koje možete odmah kupiti i ponijeti kući. Tu je i najčuveniji brend sa proizvodima sa Mrtvog mora Ahava koji u svojoj radnji ima izložene figure ljudi napravljenih od soli, a ponuda proizvoda će vam izmamiti sve pare iz novčanika. Tu je i radnja izraelskog lanca moderne garderobe Castro ali i atelje najpoznatijeg izraelskog dizajnera Ronen Chen-a. Na vama je da odaberete da li ćete sa sobom ponijeti jedinstveni komad mode dizajniran i proizveden u Izraelu, neobičan nakit, umjetničko djelo, neki antikvitet, začine, čajeve, poslastice ili od svega po malo.Težak je izbor znam.

Koliko god da izdvojite vremena za razgledanje biće premalo da biste vidjeli i doživeli Jerusalim  zato će ovo za mene svakako biti grad kome ću se rado vraćati da ga istražujem na svoju ruku ili uz ljubaznu pomoć turističke organizacije Tourist Israel koju vam preporučujem jer ljubazni tim vam stoji na raspolaganju ali i veliki izbor izleta kroz Jerusalim, Izrael i susjedne zemlje. A Izrael ima još tako puno toga da ponudi kao što je oaza u pustinji Ein Gedi sa neverovatnim vodopadima, čudesa Mrtvog mora, planina i tvrđava Masada sa koje možete uživati u neverovatnim pogledima na izlazak ili zalazak sunca,vožnju žičarom, zatim Tel Aviv...i još mnoga mjesta koja sam obišla a koja pripadaju nekim drugim poglavljima.

Ivana Aćimić

Diplomirani Master Arhitekta i dizajner enterijera. Zaljubljenik u modu i putovanja, kao i dobre knjige, muziku i filmove i sam život pa je iz entuzijazma prema stvarima koje voli nastao i blog Ivanasworld. Trudi se da od života stvori sopstvenu bajku. Očarana svijetom i putovanjima kao i knjigama i arhitekturom a omiljena stvar joj je ispijanje čaja koji je pravi mali ritual. Nepopravljivi optimista koji ne moze da živi bez svojih kućnih ljubimaca. Propagira male stvari koje život čine ljepšim. www.ivanasworld.com

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